MBShop thread:
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=244372



Here are the pictures.  I don't have Photoshop so I'll have to
describe each picture separately.  The writeup is dumbed down for
mbshop:

1 - rivetsdrilledout.jpg

I used a 3/16" bit to grind off the rivet heads and countersink the
holes for the screws I planned to use.  The screws were planned,
countersinking was an unexpected bonus :)  FWIW, my great contribution
to MB DIY-hood is discovering that common wallplate screws will
self-thread perfectly into these drilled out rivets!



2 - vcvopen.jpg

When you pry apart the aluminum cover from the plastic case of the
VCV, the open face of the VCV has a rubber sheet over it.  The hole in
the lower left corner corresponds with the vent fitting.  The nut at
the center has a pin that slots into the aluminum case.



3 - vcvspring.jpg

This is the negator spring and plugner of the VCV.  VCV valve train
already removed.



4 - valvetrain.jpg

This is VCV valve train.  The parts are out of order as I discovered
when I put the VCV back together.  The big spring goes between the
black cap and the flower (doesn't look like a flower in this pciture),
not between the valve train and the plunger as suggested.  The outer
edge of the diaphragm is rounded on one side and flat on the other.
The flat side goes against the black cap.  The plastic ring keeps the
shape of the diaphragm.



5 - topvalvetrain.jpg

This is the business end of the VCV.  The tangs of the black cap are
chewed up because it's a real PITA to release it from the plastic VCV
body.  You can see the vacuum supply nipple in the center, that's a
metal tube, and directly to the left is a port leading to the
amplifier fitting.  The o-ring is what's left of what should be a
solid rubber/foam pad that is pressed against the metal tube to cut
vacuum to the amplifier.  The pad goes into the holder (you're looking
into the holder in this view) which has 4 tabs to hold the pad.  The
holder sits on the spring inside the cup below the spring.  The cup
retains a plastic ring and diaphragm (not shown in this picture)
against the flower thing above.  It doesn't look like a flower in this
picture either.



6 - paddiameter.jpg

This foam/rubber pad should be solid.  A piston pushes this pad
against the vacuum source nipple to cut vacuum to the chamber and thus
to the port leading to the amplifier.




7 - padthickness.jpg

Pad thickness.

Technically, you don't have to open the VCV to replace the pad but
it's really difficult to pry the tabs of the black cap through the
slots on top.  2 or 3 of the tabs are shielded by the aluminum cover
when the VCV is together.